Aquarium Moon Lights

Aquarium Moon Lights; Is Moon Light truly Blue?

The use of Moonlights in aquariums (Reef in particular) is one of the most misunderstood and inaccurately stated subjects that is sadly repeated by aquarium forums, websites, product manufacturers, and retailers.
The simple fact is moonlite is NOT Blue, rather this is a perception due to Rod Cone Interaction in the human eye.
See: Modeling Blue shift in Moonlit Scenes by Rod Cone Interaction

If you go outside on a purely moonlit night the surrounding appears to have a tinge of blue. This phenomenon often referred to as ‘Blue Shift’ is a perceptual illusion. Moon light itself is not blue; moonlight is simply full spectrum sunlight reflected off the grayish
surface of the moon. It is hard to observe blue shift in cities due to many artificial
sources of light, however it is a commonly observed phenomenon in places with low ambient light.
The blue shift is sometimes attributed to the spectral response of rods. Although rods are nominally color blind, they do not respond equally to all colors: Rods are more sensitive to blue-green photons and less sensitive to red photons. You can see this in your moonlit rose. By day, the red flower dominates the green leaves. At night, the situation is reversed. The green leaves are more vivid than the red flower.

Correct Application of Moon Light for Aquarium Use

Since even a full moon only reflects .2 lux of sunlight which is only about 1/400,000 to 500,000 the brightness of the sun, the main implication is the amount of light, as some studies suggest that plants and photosynthetic algae (such as the zooxanthellae that light sensitive corals, clams, nudibranchs and similar rely upon) are effected by bright full moon phases. So the implication is not how blue the light is, rather than how bright the “moonlight” is (moonlight is slightly higher at Tropical latitudes and even up to 1 lux at high altitudes at the equator, which of coarse there are no reefs on mountain tops in Nepal, except maybe according to Yahoo Answers LOL).
As well the Lunar phase or cycle is also extremely important as well in this equation, as coral reproduction/propagation spawns are 3-7 days following the first 2 Full moons in late spring and early summer (as found in the Great Barrier reef of Australia).

What an aquarium keeper needs to be concerned about if truly attempting to replicate Moonlite for his Reef aquarium is not the color, but the precise amount of light in a constantly dimming (from full to new moon) or increasing amount of moonlight (from new moon to full moon). This also must be in a lunar cycle which is 29.5 days (the Lunar Phase is 27.3 days).
See this website for more about the lunar cycle: Moon Calculator


Since timers are set up on a solar calendar, this is not possible with most of the equipment currently available in the aquarium hobby. This would take someone with precise measurements entered into a computer program to then plug ones aquarium Lights into these. For this, LED Aquarium Lights are clearly the best choice and these should be full spectrum or at least a full spectrum mix such as the AquaRay Reef White.

For those that insist on Blue Moon Lights and think they are providing an essential ingredient for a healthy reef aquarium, they are fooling themselves and only providing at best “cool” nightlights for their aquarium

For much more about Aquarium Lighting, including a discussion of Moon Lights, please visit this web page:
Aquarium Lighting; Facts & Information


Further Resources:
*Strange Moonlight
*Interference of moonlight with the photoperiodic measurement of time by plants

Aquarium Maintenance Companies

REGIONAL AQUARIUM OR POND PROFESSIONAL MAINTENANCE/SERVICE COMPANIES.

This will be a growing list for those who would like to promote their professional aquarium (or pond) maintenance companies.
We will research wherever possible (& note this with a star), but please note that often we will be trusting the submissions portfolio/resume

CALIFORNIA

*American Aquarium Design & Maintenance
*Phone: 909-592-4467
*Location: San Dimas California
*Over 20 Years Professional Experience
*Only taking new Aquarium Maintenance customers at this time (no new pond customers)
*Largest Client: Coaster Company of America; corporate headquarters, officer’s residences, satellite offices (over 30 aquariums/ponds with this client alone)
*Saltwater and Freshwater

*Ancient Mariner Aquarium Maintenance and Design
*Phone: 408-732-7378
*Location: Greater San Francisco Bay Area from San Mateo and Hayward south to the Almaden Valley: The “Fish Doctor” for the Greater SF Bay Area.
*Important clients include: Stanford Hospital & Saratoga Retirement Homes
*Over 22 Years Professional Experience
*Inventor of the Commercial APV 400 Aquarium Cleaning Machine as well as the home use Aquarium Cleaning Machine
*Saltwater and Freshwater

*All Aquatics USA
*Phone: 818-518-7529 or 818-812-9416
* email; info@allaquaticsusa.com
*Location: San Fernando Valley, Los Angeles County, Ventura County, Malibu, Santa Monica, Beverly hills.
*Important clients include: Stanford Hospital & Saratoga Retirement Homes
*In business since 1998
*Aquarium maintenance, custom design, set up, break downs, and also pond maintenance.
*Area of Expertise; Aquarium custom design.
* Website Address: All Aquatics USA; Aquarium Maintenance

CANADA

*Aqua Lease LTD
*Phone: 403-225-2348
*Calgary, Alberta, Canada
*Over 24 Years Professional Experience
*Aqua Lease has been around since 1986 and has since acquired many maintenance contracts, both residential and commercial. Tanks from 10 gallons to 1000 gallons are maintained as well as many ponds. Aquariums are either privately owned or leased out by David Sheremeta, the president and CEO. Fish can also be supplied by the company. Dave is the largest maintenance company in Calgary and also works directly with the SPCA rescuing and re-homing unwanted and sick fish. Clients often require Aqua Lease to indoor house pond fish through the tough Canadian winters. Samples of Dave’s work can be found at AquaLease

= We can vouch for the quality of this companies service and knowledge.


If interested in a listing for your area of aquarium or pond maintenance please comment on this blog (the comment may or may not be kept) or email carl@everything-aquatic.com with this information:
• Phone number,
• email (if available),
• Address (this is not required as many maintenance companies prefer not to have a listed address)
• Years in business
• Any referrals or clients that can be used as a resume
• Area of service
• Types of service offered
• Area(s) of expertise
• Only full time companies are accepted

Please understand that we reserve the right to not list maintenance companies that we feel are not truly professional maintenance companies or known feedback is poor.

Wonder Shells; Aquarium Forums Hall of Shame 9

Aquarium Forums Hall of Shame 9; Wonder Shells from "Aquatic Community"

While I will apologize in advance if I offend anyone who reads this, as this is not my intention, however I should say I was offended by the anecdotal comments thrown around on this forum post. Rather than have a discussions of the scientific merits of this product and the evidence behind reasons it may or may not be beneficial it became a free for all for non scientific misstatements where it is clear that most persons read little or did not see what they read, nor did they read the referenced outside sources provide in that articles referenced on the Wonder Shell website. There is no way an honest person can read either Wonder Shell webpage or the many articles referenced and make the statement made in this forum thread.
I was also made aware of another post from this same aquatic forum about the use of aquarium salt which is how this post came about: Aquarium Answers; Use of Salt in Freshwater Aquariums. This aquarium answers post has nothing to sell I might add, which further discredits the many snake oil comments in this shameful forum post.

From:
http://www.aquaticcommunity.com/aquariumforum/showthread.php?t=53323

POSTS IN THIS THREAD (snips):

(1) “As with most aquarium products, the write-up on Wonder Shells makes them sound absolutely vital for the health of your fish.
I've been using them for about 6 months now, and haven't seen anything that would indicate my fish are better, or worse, with them in the tank.”

My Comment:
Neither the Aquarium Chemistry Article nor the Wonder Shells webpage state they are essential; in fact the webpage states this: “NOT a cure all for poor water management, but a useful tool in proper aquarium maintenance.”
The Chemistry Article states this (and makes similar points within the article as well as makes other recommendations: “Before I over promote Wonder Shells, these can aid in proper water management, but they are not a magic bullet in an aquarium for poor aquarium husbandry such as mulm build up under gravel or decorations. However they can be one more piece of the water quality management puzzle and sometimes with fish such as Livebearers and Goldfish the results/benefits of use can be dramatic”

Benefits of use are not always readily noticed (although with fish that are more sensitive to poor mineral cation levels it is often much more noticeable).
It is also noteworthy (as I state in many places in my articles) that good aquarium husbandry will make their use less necessary (if at all) and a person that takes excellent care and has fish less sensitive to poor mineral cation levels are likely to not notice any benefits (although my controlled in the 1990s showed less incidence of disease & longer lifespan when mineral cations were maintained on a steady/regular basis, see: “A Healthy Aquarium; Disease Prevention”)

(2) “Never heard of them so guess they aren't too vital.
lol”

My Comment:
Not knowing of a product means nothing nor proves nothing, this is a plain ignorant answer IMHO employing the worse kind of logic that is similar to stating that “I have never circled the earth on a plane or ship, therefore I doubt the planet is a sphere.”

(3)“Scare tactic marketing. I wouldn't pay that sort of thing too much mind. Most of that type of stuff doesn't do very much IME. Just another gimick to get a few dollars from you.”

My Comment:
What scare tactic marketing?, Did this guy read the webpage or the links to more scientific articles. Never does it state that if you do not use this product your fish will suffer or dies (or anything similar). This is typical of so many in the aquarium hobby to post opinions without even reading the subject of which they are speaking.

(4) “Provides crabs, snails and turtles with an easily available source of calcium for healthy shell growth."
The above is the only reason I would even consider buying it. All the rest sounds like a bit of hooey.”

My Comment:
Again, did this person read the articles/links to back up statements and within these links are scientific references to even more .edu scientific articles?
I might also add at this time that when I am down in Los Angeles for my business trips that I am often sought out by many experts in their own right that run some of the major outlets for marine and freshwater supplies/fish such as Quality Marine and Tideline, as well I even had a call in 2009 from a pHd researcher complimenting my research into the Redox Balance as he has seen few outside of the medical community that even were aware of its importance in “life processes”

(5) “They are not vital for anything. The calcium would help snails or possibly Rift Lake African Cichlids that need calcium for harder water, but other than that they're non essential. They don't do anything that regular water changes won't take care of.”

My Comment:
This is not quite so out of line as he is correct that water changes can and do many of what a Wonder Shells takes care of, however this product or similar liquid drips can provide important mineral cations that are useful for both osmoregulation and Redox balance in between water changes. This can be quite noticeable with some fish such as livebears, African cichlids, & goldfish, however even with fish such as Bettas, this can still have a beneficial effect on fish health (otherwise why would others such as Atkinson’s Spa include calcium in their Betta formula?

(6) “I'm familiar with the site NG. There is a lot of good information there and at the links, but he does tend to promote the products he sells. And, IMHO, his review of Aquaclear HOBs is very inaccurate.

I don't know, to be honest, just how much the Wonder Shells would raise pH. But if there's calcium in them, the pH is going to go ^.

And I would trust Seachem's Paraguard before I ever used medicated wonder shells!”

My Comment:
I appears that at least this person has read some of the information/articles (& is more polite), but he is still off base in more than one area.
First of all my review of Aqua Clears in my filtration article even states that these reviews are both facts and opinions, & I acknowledge that many have positive results (including the aquariums I have installed these on for clients), however I have also had higher break down and other issues as well based on the use of literally dozens.
I am glad this person is happy with his 2 or 3 Aqua Clear Filters (as many are), but this does not compare to the many I have maintained nor the feedback my colleagues in this business have given me as to these filters. I did this for a living for many over 20 years and employed others in this business before I had to move and I am sorry to sound smug (as this is not my intention), but using a few AC filters simply does not compare to the dozens I have used and his statement “his review of Aquaclear HOBs is very inaccurate” does not hold water when you factor in experience (kind of like a passenger of a jetliner critiquing an airline pilot with 20 years experience based on his (the passenger) first solo flight in a Cessna).

Second, although he is not stating there is something wrong with my promoting products I sell, it sure seems inferred. What is wrong with this? I provide free information, answer emails and phone calls 7 days a week and often work 14 plus hours per day all for less than a $1000 per month income; am I not entitled to make any profit?
As well 90% of what I sell I have used and tested and these Wonder Shells in particular are an item I have used for almost 30 years and many of my clients even commented that I should try promoting them on the internet based on their positive results when I had to leave my Aquarium Maintenance business behind in 2002.

Third, no where does it state that Wonder Shells raise pH, and he should read some chemistry basics as it is carbonates that primarily affect pH, which Wonder Shells have little (my comment here is not meant disrespectfully, however this is a very basic principle of KH and pH and it is carbonates that contribute to a higher pH/KH, not calcium and by making this statement one as to question his aquarium keeping knowledge)

Forth, The Wonder Shells webpage (as well as my Ich article) states that SeaChem ParaGuard is a first choice for Ich

(7) “I'd never heard of them but looking at the website they sound like snake oil. That's the place I've EVER seen anything suggesting trying to harden the water for discus and rams. To me it looks like a fad product that will do nothing but mess up my tank water. No thanks, even if they paid me I would not add it to my tank based on their claims.”

My Comment:

There is little I can say to this post as this person’s comments show he has little understanding of chemistry and cannot learn anything that is beyond is close minded views. He obviously has no understanding of bio-chemistry and worse is un-willing to learn either. This guy would rather disgustingly label others (as peddling snake oil) and totally show his even basic knowledge of aquarium bio chemistry and aquatic product history.
Stating “That's the place I've EVER seen anything suggesting trying to harden the water for discus and rams” really shows his strange reasoning, as no knowing about a subject does not make it false. As well he should research Marc Weiss, as he is one of the first to prove. I admit I learned from some of his articles dating back to products he collaborated with the Premier Aquatic Chemical company with; Aquatronics (which sadly went out of business earlier in this decade due to corporate issues, not product quality). Marc Weiss and others in the field of Discus and similar soft water fish have proven the importance of calcium in Discus, and even more recently others have shown that keeping the water “charged” with positive calcium ions is important as well.
I have also demonstrated (after using one of Marc Weiss’ Aquatronics products) that the addition of calcium cations to the aquarium water can alleviate HITH Disease in Discus.
So much for never seeing anything about the FACT that even Rams and Discus require Calcium for long term health!
(See Aquarium Chemistry; Amazon, SE Asia River Water)

The term snake oil can only be applied to a product that provides no scientific benefit, as the articles and the references there in prove there is science behind this product and similar products. Sadly this guy does not even know how to apply the term fad, as this product has been around for more than 30 years with no marketing, promotion, or even good packaging; Why, because they do work. 30 plus years of poorly marketed product does not make for a fad.

In Summary, here are just a few sites uninformed, anecdotal, aquarists that believe the lies put forth in the aquarium thread cited in “Aquarium Community” should read Including the many references cited therein:

*Aquarium Chemistry

*Aquarium Redox Balance

*Osmoregulation in Aquariums; Minerals; Use of RO Water, more

*A Healthy Aquarium; Disease Prevention

*Aquarium Lighting

Finally, a point for those who stick to the closely held anecdotal beliefs that so badly permeate the aquarium keeping hobby rather than read researched articles such my Aquarium Chemistry, Redox or Aquarium/Pond Answers articles/posts, is best summed up by another Mentor of mine, (Reggie) at an aquarium supply wholesaler that finished his business career there (after most of his decades of business in different industries specializing in making poorly managed businesses successful again) told me this:
"I have never seen a more dishonest and back stabbing business than the Aquarium industry".
While this thread that was brought to my attention is technically not a an aquarium industry post, nor is it back stabbing, it does certainly fit into what Reggie (& others I know at Quality Marine and elsewhere) has pointed out that persons will ignore facts and take others out of context just to hold tightly onto anecdotal beliefs rather than admit that maybe they do not know something.
I know that I have been forced to change my understanding of aquarium concepts when either new evidence surfaces or I am corrected with more complete facts; the Redox Balance is a good example where I would have stated 180 degrees the opposite of what I know now about this still very misunderstood part of bio-chemistry.

LED Aquarium Lights vs Metal Halide

LED Aquarium Lights vs. Metal Halide;
Yahoo Answers Hall of Shame #8; Can you use LED Lights for planted freshwater or Reef Aquariums?

I do no know whether to laugh or cry as to two relatively recent Yahoo answers that were brought to my attention.
Both of these answers could not be more wrong, and sadly the correct answers are no mystery and are not hard to find.
What amplifies the disgust I find with these answers is both are by so-called top contributors and one even claims 15 years experience.

I will give each question and (bad) answer followed by a correction

QUESTION:
Saltwater aquarium LED lights?
I have a 4 ft tank and would like a LED lighting system as an upgrade from t8s. Are there any cheap systems available?

BAD ANSWER (from YA):
No, they are far from cheap, and the technology is still new and not that great. The one time manufacturer of these lights (PFO) was sued and stop making them. Other manufactures are have large problems with computer boards etc. I would avoid them for now , look at t-5s or a good metal halide setup.
15 yrs Reef keeping and this.

CORRECTION:
While cheap is a relative term, when you consider that a LED Light fixture lasts 50,000 hours vs. a T5 that he recommends, as well when you consider a comparable T5 costs about 70% of a LED, I would have to even question this subjective part of his answer.

As to the other part of his answer, I have to ask what planet this guy is on (I mean no disrespect, I just cannot grasp how he can come up with this comment), while some of the first generation lights (Solaris) were both pricy and not as "good", there is no "one" manufacturer (There are many from TMC, Lamp Elves, Current. LED Grow Lights to name a few). I know for a fact that TMC has had not problems with either its second generation or its newest 3rd generation.
As well when you look at all factors (PAR, Lumens Per Watt, Useful Energy, etc.) modern LEDs surpass T5s and even Metal Halide (there is tests/evidence to support this too).
What also makes me question the credibility of his answer is that he did not even mention two lighting types that others in the lighting community (not anecdotal reef keepers) are aware; the T2 and SHO Light. The T2 has a better useful light energy output over the older T5s he promotes.

QUESTION:
im starting a new tropical aquarium and im wondering if these lights are good enough for my fishes health i am planing to stock my tank with live plants as well

BAD ANSWER (from YA):
Generally LEDs are not bright enough for live plants. You can get LED arrays that are bright enough for a small tank, but they are expensive.

For a fish only tank the lights are not as important, you only need them to see the fish better.

CORRECTION

This answer is really bad, where does this person get his information?
Studies outside the anecdotal aquarium hobby/industry (from the horticulture/greenhouse industry where bad results puts them out of business) that go back to 2006 have no only shown that LED lights can grow plants, but growth is superior to a comparable Kelvin output Metal Halide.

In the picture to the left a 12 watt LED Grow Light similar to the Natural Daylight LED Aquarium Light showed superior growth to a 175 watt full spectrum Metal Halide.

I strongly suggest freshwater plant and reef keepers read this in depth and more importantly well researched and "current" article about aquarium lighting:
Aquarium Lighting; Facts & Information

LED and T2 Aquarium Lights

LED and T2 Aquarium Lights for Freshwater and Marine Reef Tanks
The LED and T2 as of this post are probably the best two aquarium lights in terms of output of useful light energy per watts used

Although the popularity of these two lights is still lagging many other lights used by aquarium hobbyists, hopefully the facts of these two styles will get out to many who will find these to be useful for marine reef and freshwater plant tanks in particular.

Both these lights still have much misunderstanding (along with the other excellent light that is popular in greenhouses, but is still sadly not well known in the aquarium hobby/industry; the SHO).
In the case of the LED, many still cannot get past the watts per gallon rule of thumb that is badly outdated, as well the other aspect that slows the popularity is cost which is certainly more understandable, however when one considers the 50,000 hour lifespan and the operating costs that are generally 1/3 or less of many popular CFLs, this is not truly the barrier it is often made out to be (although up front costs to acquire many of the better LED Systems such as the “Top of the Line” TMC Aqua Ray LED Aquarium Lights certainly can still be hurdle for those on a budget).
This is where the newest generation T2 light systems shine as although the output per energy used is not to the level of an LED, it is an improvement over the still excellent but lower output per watts used T5 lights, as well the T2 is a considerable improvement over many CFLs and more so yet over standard T8 and T12 lights. The advantage of the T2 is price with many of the fixtures priced around $30 usd. (as compared to the $150 usd plus for the better LED systems)

What sets these Lights Apart from others?

First, I would suggest that readers reference this excellent a well researched article (as this Fish as Pets post is but an abbreviated summary):
Aquarium Lighting; Information, Facts

Here are some important points to consider rather than the old watts per gallon “rule” only:
• Watts per gallon,
• Lumens per watt, PAR (often easiest determined by Kelvin output),
• Lumen focus
• PAR
• Useful Light Energy (not wasted in yellow/green spectrum that plants and zooanthellic algae reflect)
• Output in relation to bulb length (this is where T2 and Power Compacts excel).
• Lux

The first five are the most important, and as well it is noteworthy that watts per gallon is still a consideration, it is at best ¼ of what determines a proper aquarium light for a given aquarium. With this under consideration one modern LED such as the TMC Aqua Ray LED 12 Watt Aquarium Light Fixtures can produce more useful light energy necessary for live freshwater plants or marine reefs than one older generation T8 or T12 Trichromatic Fluorescent of 20 watts by 4-5 times.
Even modern CFLs require about three times the wattage to produce the same amount of useful light energy.

When it comes to T2 Aquarium Lights, although they still fall short of an LED, these lights still have one of the highest lumens per watt outputs and still produce less yellow/green spectrum light energy than many others. As well the purchase price is low, plus they generally last about 10,000 compared to the 8,000 hours of most other fluorescent lights and are available in the most important Kelvin temperature for optimum PAR; 6400 K.
The only short coming of T2s is for larger aquariums it make take too many of the T2 Fixtures and in this case a SHO or T5 lights may be more practical.

However the T2 is quite adaptable and multiple fixtures can be linked together so as to require only one outlet and even for larger aquariums such as a fish only freshwater aquarium, two 13 watt T2 fixtures can easily provide enough light for a 60, 75 and even a 5 foot 100 gallon aquarium for a n excellent savings of energy over standard aquarium lights.

See the comparisons of different lights to pictorially explain these lights:
Please click on Pictures to enlarge

This picture shows the visible light of a 13 Watt T2 with two 15 Watt CFLs (both are 6400K):


This picture demonstrates one of the strengths of an new technology LED Light (Aqua Ray) using a special camera lens;
On the left is one daylight LED (12 Watts).
On the right is two daylight CFL (totaling 30 watts)
Besides the noticeable higher light output with lower watts, the filter on this camera shows the increase of yellow/green light which is useless to most green plants and zooanthellic algae.


Conclusion

Sadly when I read many aquarium forums, especially Yahoo Answers (which should be avoided like the plague by those desiring factual aquarium information), Many still slam LED lights as impractical and overly expensive.
As well many have not even heard of T2 lights (or even SHO), even though the rest of the industrial lighting world has.

Yahoo Answers Hall of Shame, UV Sterilizers

Aquarium Forum/Yahoo Answers Hall of Shame #7; UV Sterilizers for Aquariums (Again) Part 2

Once again Yahoo Answers allowed a plagiarized post to stand as a best answer (even with multiple complaints).

In this answer, a person plagiarized and pasted points out of context from my UV Sterilization Article. He even contradicts his opening comments by using my material.

First I will post the Yahoo Answers so called “best answer” (with my plagiarized content in italics), followed by corrections:

UV sterilizers are good in multi-tank systems where risk of parasites and disease are great. In the average tank, it will destroy all the beneficial bacteria and tiny critters that are needed to maintain healthy life.

One on the big drawbacks of using one is that not all of the water and organisms will pass through the sterilizer, making it somewhat ineffective to control the problem.

UV sterilization will not cure infected fish of bacterial or fungal diseases. A UV can aid in cure by killing bacterial pathogens in the water column and fungal spores, also by improvement of the Redox potential and general water quality.

A UV sterilizer will not kill ich trophozoites already on the fish (but then medications don’t either), but UVC can again slow the spread of ich tomites in the water column (but usually not out right kill ich tomites).

A UV sterilizer will not kill beneficial bacteria such aerobic bacteria, as this bacterium is effective when attached to a surface of high water flow such as the sponge of a sponge filter, not when in the water column. It is best to turn off a Sterilizer unit when introducing bacteria to seed a new aquarium.

UV Sterilization will not remove or destroy algae growing on tank or pond sides, rocks, decorations, etc.

UV Sterilization will NOT make up for poor aquarium maintenance practices such as over crowding, over feeding, inadequate filtration, poor cleaning practices, improper water parameters, and more.

For me its not worth getting one not worth the cost I myself never use one...

Comments;
*First of all he contradicts the opening paragraph by pasting my content in paragraph #5, as he is dead wrong when it comes to real research.

*Second he does not even allow the asker to read the article for himself by referencing the article from which he plagiarized content (which is supposedly a rule in Yahoo Answers)

*Third, shame on Yahoo Answers for not removing clearly plagiarized content that was used to deliver incorrect information to an asker after this was called to Yahoo’s attention by several persons.
Yahoo Answers is CLEARLY not interested in providing useful information for its readers/askers by allowing this to stand after being notified of the issue.
BTW, if Yahoo were to claim that this is a matter of opinion, my response is twofold; Wrong, these are facts; Two, and more importantly this material was plagiarized and NOT cited/referenced for the readers to make up their own mind.

I will not provide a direct link, as I do not want to lend any credit to Yahoo Answers, so please paste this link into your browser if you would like to read the full thread (including comments made after the answer was awarded best answer):
http://answers.yahoo.com/question/index?qid=20091020203346AAGk6s0

The bottom line is; a properly set up UV Sterilizer is not essential, however it is a major piece of equipment for any aquarium or pond keeper that is serious about disease prevention and water quality (UV Sterilization improves Redox too). If you do add a UV Sterilizer to your aquarium, it is important to provide regular maintenance of your UV Sterilizer as well such as changing the UV Bulbs on a regular schedule for maximum effectiveness.

Please see these articles for much more about UV Sterilization:
*UV Sterilization

*UV Sterilizer Articles/ Posts

*Aquarium Forum/Blog Hall of Shame 5; UV Sterilizers Part 1

Asian Bonytongue, News

Asian Bonytongue:
Osteoglossum formosum
AKA: Golden Arowana, Asian Arowana, Dragon Fish



Habitat Range Asia: Southern Myanmar to Malay Peninsula and Indonesia, eastern Thailand to Cardamon Range. International trade banned.

Asian Bonytongue Osteoglossum formosum live in tannin stained black, often low light forest covered streams including peat adjacent areas. Take around three months for free swimming fries.
A mouth brooder, young about 6 cm at birth with young fish feed on insects at the water surface, while adults consume fish and smaller vertebrates.
Asian Bonytongue are valued as an aquarium fish, especially among Asianaas they considered a lucky fish because of its resemblance to the Chinese mythical dragon

The Asian Bonytongue has been in the news of late in North Carolina

In July of 2009:
A Charlotte woman has been accused of smuggling live endangered fish from Vietnam, packed inside bottles of fish sauce.
Bich Phuong Truong Phan was charged with violating the Endangered Species Act by attempting to import two Asian bonytongue fish without a permit.
Truong Phan was traveling from Vietnam to Charlotte on July18 when her luggage and two cardboard boxes were opened and inspected at the Atlanta Jackson Hartsfield International Airport. Inside a cooler in one of the boxes inspectors found two clear plastic bottles appearing to contain an edible mixture of fermented fish in fish sauce or paste, according to an affidavit by an agent with the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service.
Inspectors poured out the mixture and found two black plastic bags. Inside each bag was a live fish, according to the court document.

In July of 2009
QI GUI NIE of Charlotte, North Carolina, pleaded guilty today
before United States District Court Judge Willis B. Hunt, Jr., to charges of smuggling endangered and prohibited wildlife Asian Bonytongue fish into the United States through the port of Atlanta.
United States Attorney David E. Nahmias said, “Federal laws and international
conventions are important tools to prevent the over-exploitation of endangered and
protected wildlife. Fish and Wildlife inspectors are to be commended for their vigilance here in identifying the illegal smuggling of protected species.”
James Gale, Special Agent in Charge, Southeast Region, U.S. Fish and Wildlife
Service, Office of Law Enforcement, said: “Whenever there is a demand for endangered and protected wildlife, a supply is created to meet the demand. Smuggling endangered and protected wildlife species into the United States and offering those species for sale on the black market is a persistent problem that our agents and wildlife inspectors encounter on a regular basis. This case is a prime example of how an individual attempted to smuggle endangered and protected wildlife for his personal gain. Our agents and wildlife inspectors will continue to concentrate on and aggressively pursue individuals and organizations who promote the illegal trade of protected species of wildlife.”

References
Fishbase.org; Asian bonytongue

http://www.earthsendangered.com/profile.asp?view=c&ID=3&sp=41

Columnaris Disease in Fish

Aquarium Forum/Blog Hall of Shame #6; Columnaris Disease

The treatment and prevention of the Aquarium (& pond) disease "Columnaris" seems to be one of the subjects of more inaccuracies than most disease commonly confronted by aquarists.
Surprisingly about.com has an article that although basic without much information, is generally accurate in identification, but otherwise does not give very good information for treatment or prevention.
HOWEVER from wiki to many other sites, blogs and forums this is a subject that is full of anecdotal inaccuracies.

One popular Betta site/forum (Ultimate) has an article that has a few inaccuracies in one article (often it is one inaccuracy here another there), and since it is a sad representation of what is commonly out on the internet, I will use it to make my points of inaccuracies about Columnaris

Here are some quotes followed by corrections/Refutations:

* "Maracyn is the most useful anti-biotic"

CORRECTION: WRONG! Columnaris is a strictly gram negative bacterium while Maracyn (which is Erythromycin) is a gram positive antibiotic.

If the author of this article or anyone had any success with Erythromycin, this is proof that the disease treated was NOT Columnaris, rather a gram positive pathogen. What antibiotic that has proven gram negative effectiveness will work best is more debatable, whether a combination of Furan 2/Kanaplex, Minocycline, Triple Sulfa or others, but you will not achieve success with a gram positive antibiotic!

* "Columnaris reproduces poorly in the presence of oxygen in the water, so keeping the water's oxygen content up by creating a current can help prevent Columnaris"

CORRECTION: This statement is also 100% false and has no basis in university level research or even simple reading of researched articles such as "Columnaris & Saprolegnia Disease"

Here is a quote from the above referenced article:
"In fact since Columnaris is strictly aerobic, the addition of more aeration/circulation will do nothing to stop Columnaris other than to possibly help the fish fight this disease pathogen."

I would also reference this university level article as well:
http://etd.lsu.edu/docs/available/etd-11112004-113024/unrestricted/Farmer_thesis.pdf

* "As mentioned above, Columnaris loves hard water and high pH."

CORRECTION: This statement is not as inaccurate as the other two statements, but it does show a lack of understanding of basic disease prevention water chemistry, in particular the Redox Balance and important of positive mineral ions in the water.

As well there is no scientific data to show the statement that Columnaris "loves hard water and high pH" (although Columnaris certainly 'loves' warm water, especially over 75 F), if anything the opposite is true based on both observations and data. The lack of KH, resulting in an unstable pH can be a major Columnaris causing stressor. Even more so the lack of positive mineral ions such as calcium is not only a stressor, but lowers the Redox Balance and the ability of the fish to fight infections via proper osmoregulation.
What ironic, is that this same article later recommend the use of Atison's Betta which includes calcium along with Indian Almond Leaf (& is a good product).
Personally I think the use of a mineral block such as a Wonder Shell which will keep a constant supply of positive calcium ions in the water column (unlike Atison's Spa), combined with a more pure source of Indian Almond Leaf such as Bio Lif is a better way to go.